The Grey Ghost
May 2009 was our third trip to Thaba Mmoyo Safaris in South Africa. All three of our visits have been in the latter part of May the Fall season in this southern hemisphere, a time of cool, clear mornings and warm sunny days, a far cry from the cold, damp days of May in Alaska.
We were so happy to be here again with the gracious Steyn’s, people we had come to regard as family, not merely our hosts, in this beautiful and remote land. We were comforted as soon as we entered the Buffalo chalet, our home away from home. The grass thatched roof and stone walls would protect us each night as we returned from our adventures in the field. The large stone shower and beautiful soaking tub beckoned us each night before we fell into deep sleep dreaming of tomorrow’s quest.
Our first trip here was in 2004 and we were immediately smitten with this land and its people. The great thing about hunting here is the diversity of species and the challenge of the hunt. Hunters who have not yet visited the country of South Africa are under the false impression that because of the numbers of animals the hunt is easy. Nothing could be further from the truth. I am still surprised to see that a kudu bull, as large as a bull elk, can be standing not 20 yards in front of us and we could not see him. There’s the reason for his nickname, the Grey Ghost. How could a loud, large troupe of baboons disappear into the bush right before our eyes? Although we have hunted all over North America for quarry as varied as white tail deer, caribou, black bear, and Alaskan brown bear, our first South African visit proved to be quite an adventure. My husband Marc and I harvested 10 animals in a single hunting trip. We were both fortunate enough to get beautiful Kudu bulls as well as the quintessential African Wart Hog and the striking Impala ram. One animal that was on my wish list was the Gemsbok. Fanie, our Professional Hunter, co owner of Thaba Mmoyo, had me on several groups of this magnificent animal. It was impossible for me to get a shot, however, because both the males and females have horns and we kept running into groups of pregnant females. As luck would have it, I did not find the bull I was looking for on this trip. Little did I know that this elusive animal would haunt me for another five years.
Our second trip came in 2006, and again we were not disappointed. We came with two other couples this time. We wanted to share our adventure with some dear friends and they too were changed for the better because of their experience here in the Bushveld. The other women in the group were not hunters though they accompanied their husbands in the field for true adventure. It was so exciting to hear their stories of seeing a giraffe or zebra in the wild for the very first time. Imagine the joy of sharing your stories of the day over the pungent aroma of a Mopani wood campfire and a delicious glass of South African Pinotage wine. Dinners were quite the culinary experience. Most evenings we feasted on game meats, harvested daily by our group. Pulled pork from a recently shot wart hog or Impala steaks wrapped in bacon and grilled over the open fire were just a few of the delicacies we enjoyed. On this our second trip we harvested six animals during our stay. I was lucky enough to shoot a Blesbuck. His white face framed by dark brown is so beautiful that it defies description. One again I was thwarted by the elusive gemsbok. We spent two full days stalking these magnificent creatures, but I was still not able to get one. That’s two trips to South Africa and the score is Gemsbok, two…me, zero!
Our third visit to South Africa and our friends at Thaba Mmoyo was in May, 2009. My first day out in the field was to find that Gemsbok that has been haunting my dreams. I have practiced profusely with my .300 Winchester short magnum and am confident that if a shot presents itself, I am ready. Fanie lead the way, Marc followed with the video camera. Bringing up the rear is our tracker, Tafara. Almost immediately Fanie finds some Gemsbok tracks in the red sand. We follow them for a while and drop into a gully. Just over the rise I see the distinctive, black horns of a gemsbok. Our entire party stops dead. Fanie puts up the binoculars. Without a word he sets up the wooden shooting sticks for me to use. I gingerly place the barrel of my rifle on them. I peer through the scope and see my first glimpse of a gemsbok bull. He and a cow are grazing in and out of the brush and it is hard to keep track of the male and the female as they weave their way in and out of my line of sight. I take aim and keep looking through the scope waiting for Fanie to give me the signal to shoot. Minutes seem like hours. Finally one of the animals comes out of the brush and angles slightly away from me. Fanie confirms that it is the male and I should take the shot only if I am ready and feel comfortable. The bull is 100 yards away, a distance I have practiced over and over again. Five years of hoping and dreaming have come down to this second. I aim right behind the shoulder and squeeze the trigger. All hell breaks loose. Animals explode around us. Birds fly into the air. Fanie keeps his binoculars on the animal as it runs for cover in the bush. Marc asks Tafara if the shot looked good. “He is dead, sir” is all our faithful tracker utters. I run to where the animal stood and not 20 yards away is where he fell. What a beautiful trophy, made all the more special by my previously failed attempts. I am ecstatic. Marc gives me a big proud kiss, knowing this was the animal I was longing for, for five years!
This is a moment I will never forget. Thanks again Thaba Mmoyo
Story by: Mary Zuckerman